Lambs’ kidneys with buttery noodles
Lambs’ kidneys are at their most delicious when lambs are young and lovely; when grass is green and plentiful, the weather is warm and the lambs are pretty happy with their life, such as it is.
1 kidney per person
a little milk
100g unsalted butter, cut into cubes
salt
black pepper
1 clove garlic, sliced finely
handful chopped mixed, fresh herbs – whatever is available, whatever you like - Chop them roughly, so you don’t take any of the personality or identity from the herbs.
fresh pasta - You need the richness of flavour and the tenderness of the home-made product. Try not to use dried.
1
Cut all the green muck from the centre of the kidneys, slice into bite-size pieces and leave for half an hour in a little milk and water, to eliminate a little of the: (i) earthy, (ii) original, (iii) unpleasant, (iv) all of the above flavours, flavours which have much to do with the kidney’s sole, living purpose.
2
Heat a little water (about half a cup) and whisk in the butter piece by piece. The butter mix must be fluid, but not oily. Season with salt and plenty of black pepper and add the garlic. Keep warm.
3
The kidneys cook very quickly. Heat a little oil in a heavy pan until the pan and the oil are very hot. Toss in the kidneys, making sure you do not overcrowd the pan, and work them around until they sizzle. They should be firm, only just cooked. Toss in a handful of the herbs and work them around the pan until they grip all of the kidney pieces. Set aside in the pan – off the heat – while you cook the pasta.
4
Cook the pasta briefly in plenty of boiling, salted water, until just done. It is to be eaten tender, not tough, nor al dente.
5
Toss the pasta through the melted garlic butter, so that all the strands are touched by the butter. Put the kidneys and attached herbs at the bottom of a soup bowl, and season with a little salt and black pepper. Cover with the pasta in the butter sauce and sprinkle with more herbs. The pasta will cover the kidneys and the butter will seep through, mixing with them. As you eat, you’ll go through pasta, garlic, butter and herbs; and the kidneys will be a pleasant surprise at the bottom of the bowl.
WINE: I like the thought of a pinot for this – you could buy French Burgundy but the mortgage is still there. Try Bannockburn, Coldstream Hills, Balgo – wnie Estate or De Bortoli Yarra Valley.