Gopal’s stuffed chicken breast

Gopal Kulkarni has a CV which would get him a job in just about any restaurant or hotel in the world. In fact it did, from Paul Bocuse’s famed restaurant out of Lyon, to several huge hotels in England, India, Nigeria, and more, until finally he came to Australia to make his mark and his [...]

A chicken’s inner secret

There is a most underestimated treasure lurking in poultry parlours and butcher shops across town. You might well have to search diligently for these little wonders, and perhaps even argue with your butcher as to your rights to them.
They are difficult to find because most of us wouldn’t even think to look for them. Stuck [...]

Tandoori chicken, almost

You’re not ever likely to have a tandoor oven in the kitchen, never likely to have access to the brilliant dry heat of these marvellous Indian vats of cooking, but with a bit of trickery and a touch of magic, you can produce some of the flavours of the tandoor, simply.

6 chicken breasts — 1 [...]

Hot, hot chicken in a flash

Let me present to you the world’s most spectacularly successful, quick as a flash and wonderfully flavoured dish; a dish for cooks large and thin, old and young, keen and dull; for the flamboyant and the flat, for singles, doubles, triples and more.
It’s a curry which takes the same time to cook as it does [...]

Warm chicken salad

We went through a phase with warm salads. An entirely admirable one it was, too, and not to be dismissed now, even though it might be out of fashion.
Salads represent an apparently disparate group of ingredients drawn together by a sauce or a common flavour. They are the ultimate in freshness and honesty on the [...]

A three-time loser: a chicken, stuffed, roasted, then boiled

In the not-so-old days, chicken sat next to crayfish as the food of the fortunate. I remember seeing chicken once a year, at Christmas; although we did have it occasionally, as a ‘casserole’, in less celebratory times. Later I discovered foul play: the chicken in a casserole was more likely rabbit than chook.
Such deception seems [...]

Poultry, game and offal

It’s easy to sneer at chickens, especially if you’ve watched them at close quarters in the coop. They always make me laugh, and it would certainly be a five-setter between a chicken and a lamb in any intelligence championship.

We sneer, too, at their rather flat flavour these days – an insult to a bird which, [...]

Ham hash

Every year I fall into a ham 1 for Christmas. And every year when I get the monster home I look at it and wonder what the hell am I going to do with it. It’s a little easier with many mouths to feed, but it is always before Christmas that we start to look [...]

Something like veal cordon bleu, whatever that is

Veal cordon bleu: is it real?
Did anybody make it up?
Or is it like an Hawaiian pizza, nothing more than the fertile imagination of an Australian pub cook, circa 1970. Remember? It was at about the same time as carpetbag steak, and ham steak, and sweet corn and onion salad, and baked potatoes and sour cream.
Anyway, [...]

Veal chops

Veal chops seem to be perfect candidates for quick cooking on the grill, but all is not as it seems. The chops from a young vealer are often confused by fat and sinew and sheaths, hanging about. Remarkably, they are great when cooked slowly in stock or tomatoes. If you wish to cook them quickly, [...]