A brilliant combination I came across in Toofey’s, a delightful seafood restaurant in Melbourne, is sardines with baba ghanoush, that marvellous Middle Eastern dip of eggplant and tahini. Just cook the sardines as per recipe: Sardines fried very simply, with lemon juice (or fry them in a light batter) and serve on a few tablespoons of baba ghanoush.

Most of the things you do with sardines can be done with whitebait. The best way to serve these tiny fish is to sift some flour over a handful of them, then toss them again in a sieve, leaving only a lightly powdered fish. Pan-fry as with the sardines, for about 60 seconds, and serve with lemon or lime juice. Eat them heads, guts and all.

Funny thing about all of the sardine recipes. Most people look on sardines and whitebait as bait or burley. How sad.

WINE: 4- A young Rhine riesling or beer is the only way to go with sardines.