onions, sliced

1 clove garlic, sliced finely

2 solid dessertspoons of garam masala (a hip Indian term for a spice mix) — Make your own mix. A suggested version is: 2 tablespoons coriander, 2 tablespoons whole black peppercorns, 3 hot dried chillies, 1 tablespoon fennel seeds,

1 tablespoon caraway seeds, a few dried curry leaves

2 tablespoons cumin seeds,

2 tablespoons mustard seeds

1 tablespoon of fenugreek seeds, all whizzed up in a coffee grinder. Add a tablespoon of ground turmeric for colour. But really it’s what you have in the cupboard: a mix of heat, sweetness and subtlety.

a little water

6–8 firm waxy potatoes, peeled and cut into medium-sized pieces — They must hold their own when cooked. Pontiacs (the pink skinned variety> are the type most likely to be available at your fruiterer. Patrone, a newish yellow variety, is ideal.

8 skinned cooking tomatoes, in season (or a small tin of tomatoes, with juice), mashed

1–3 chillies, depending on how hot you like it

1

Put the onions, garlic, garam masala and a little olive oil in a large pan. Cook very slowly on a low heat until the onions caramelise and become very tender. This will take at least 20 minutes, and you might need to add a little water here and there. There are no short cuts — just dream of nice things as you watch and stir. The aroma makes it worthwhile anyway.

2

Transfer to a saucepan and add the potatoes and the tomatoes (and chillies if you wish). Cook slowly on a low heat until the potatoes are done and the sauce has thickened. The idea is for the tomatoes to cook into a thick spicy sauce, hugging the potatoes. It will take about a half an hour, and again it needs a deal of watching and stirring gently. It needs a little touch to know whether to add a little water here and there to prevent sticking, or just to stir a little harder.

3

Leave overnight to allow the flavours to mingle, and then reheat gently.

WINE: Drink beer.