You might see lamb fillets in the butcher’s display tray. Be wary. These are more likely to come from mutton than lamb, and, although still tender, have a very gamey flavour, which may not appeal to too many modern palates. This is the flavour of big, fat sheep, coming from years of roaming wild pastures.

If you want fair dinkum lamb fillets, order them from your butcher. Ask him to pull away the fillets from a dozen lamb loins and save them for you. The lamb fillets need no expertise to cook: just hit them in a hot pan, making sure they do not stick. Turn them to brown on each side, and finish in the oven for a minute. Set aside for a few minutes, season with salt and black pepper, and serve, sliced, with mashed potatoes and the juices from the pan and the cutting board.