Tagliatelle with sugar peas in a lemon butter sauce
One sure way to succeed with pasta is to return absolutely to basics, to childhood, to that frantic time after school when you’d pulled out the bread and butter and had to decide what to put on it. That first lesson of associating flavours has never left me. Later on it was bread and butter [...]
Lambs’ kidneys with buttery noodles
Lambs’ kidneys are at their most delicious when lambs are young and lovely; when grass is green and plentiful, the weather is warm and the lambs are pretty happy with their life, such as it is.
Baked noodles in a bacon, leek and walnut sauce
I have read a lot about Italian cooking, eaten a lot of Italian cooking, here and there and at home. And I can’t help but feel that Italians love their food, but cook without much spontaneity, preferring the tried and true, almost to the stage of admonishment if certain procedures are not followed. Gual-tiero [...]
Pasta with smoked salmon in a smoky sauce
Smoked fish makes a delightful companion for pasta, for the same reasons as bacon does. It imparts an intense, smoky flavour to its carrier, the cream, and some delicious chunky bits to float through the pasta. The way to go is to use one set of chunks to flavour the cream, and a new, uncooked [...]
A Simple Pasta: Tagliatelle in a Bacon Cream Sauce
You approach restaurants with extraordinary naivety. The day we opened our one and only eating house we had two pasta dishes on the menu. We made the pasta in the early hours of the morning we opened, just after we had finished hand-churning the ice cream. Husband and wife, not long married and still wide-eyed [...]