In superior times, specifically those times when running a restaurant was my life, it was not seen to be de rigeur to have anything to do with the dried form of pasta. Not that there was anything absolutely wrong with such a thing – more it was to do with effort being seen to be made.

Time tends to fog the minute details of visits to the great cities of the world. Thus anything that has happened to me in Paris or New York or Rome or Florence turns into one of life’s greatest moments. Which means the tagliatelle alia vongole I took at a tiny trattoria just outside the Santa [...]

One thing to remember about great Italian cooking is that there is nothing over the top about it. No tricks of presentation – no sprigs of parsley here, nor judiciously laid leaves of chervil there – just readily available, simple flavours, cooked with gusto, spirit and plenty of love. Love for the raw ingredients, love [...]

Once you’ve done that, you’ll want to show off with it, and when you show off, it usually means you spend money. That means seafood. Prawns and scallops are just wonderful tossed through simple buttered noodles, and they take a quantum leap into glory when you douse them with spices, hit them in a red-hot [...]

One sure way to succeed with pasta is to return absolutely to basics, to childhood, to that frantic time after school when you’d pulled out the bread and butter and had to decide what to put on it. That first lesson of associating flavours has never left me. Later on it was bread and butter [...]

Lambs’ kidneys are at their most delicious when lambs are young and lovely; when grass is green and plentiful, the weather is warm and the lambs are pretty happy with their life, such as it is.